The road less traveled
Montana woman comes home after touring country on horseback
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Somewhere in the Montana wilderness Bernice Ende is finishing the final leg of her 6,000 mile, two and a half year trek across North America. During her journey, Ende has lived her life at three miles per hour on the back of her trusty horse Heart, a paint gelding and Essie Pearl, a Norwegian Fjord. Claire, her horse-riding dog, has happily kept her company along the way in her dog basket atop Essie.
Throughout the journey she has battled bitter wind, snow and rain, while living on just $20 a week. Ende began the journey riding Honor, a horse she rode during earlier treks, but the horse had to be put down after an accident in Texas.
Throughout the past seven years, Ende has traveled more than 16,000 miles across North America after retiring from her job of teaching ballet in 2003. She set out from her small cabin in Trego, Mont. in March 2009, planning to cross the U.S. on horseback on her fourth and longest ride yet.
Wearing worn jeans, rugged boots and an oversized hat to protect her from sun and rain, Ende strolled up to a warm welcome after traveling the 12 miles from Polson earlier that day. After dismounting her horse, she was swarmed by friends and new faces, stunned at her incredible journey.
“I had no idea what was in store for me when I first began these long rides,” Ende said. “I’ve learned a lot over the past seven years.”
Once she became comfortable living out of her tent and traveling the roads, Ende said she has a hard time staying idle.
“When I get home to Trego I’m going to begin planning a tour around Montana,” she added with a smile. “I’m going to go easy for awhile and enjoy myself.”
A smile as long as her journey spread across Ende’s face as she began speaking about her travels inside the quaintly restored school house.
“I love what I’m doing,” Ende said. “I get to see the world by the back of my horse.”
She claims this lifestyle choice is unique in structure, and that when she first began her long rides she never thought they would be so tantalizing.
“As I approached Flathead Lake unbelievable beauty unfolded right before my eyes,” she said. “By riding a horse you can take in your surroundings a lot slower and it makes you really appreciate our wide range of beauty in America.”
It hasn’t always been an easy road for the long rider though, as she has faced adversity a few times during the trip. In Texas, Ende’s pack horse Essie kicked her other horse Honor while they were tied close together. Essie’s extremely durable horseshoes and powerful kick shattered Honor’s femur bone. The tragedy left Ende without her main companion in the middle of Texas.
“We had to put her down ,” Ende said. “Me and Honor traveled more than 11,00 miles together. It was a huge lesson for me.”
In less than two weeks, more than seven horses were offered to Ende to finish her ride. Ende chose Heart. With the new horse, Ende altered her route, heading straight north through Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and Wyoming before stopping in Forsyth, Mont, where she spent the next five months hunkered down in a barn waiting for winter to pass.
“I had a little island to myself,” she said. “I would go days without seeing anyone, it was an eerie feeling.”
On April 15 Ende packed up her horses and headed for Trego, which was still a three month ride away. She says she has learned a lot through her trips, such as how to shoe her own horses. Each shoe is made of an extremely durable material, which lasts an outstanding 1,100 to 1,200 miles. When Ende first began she would replace the shoes every 300 miles.
“I’m taking better care of myself and my animals,” Ende said. “The first three years were pretty brutal.”
Of the many things she’s learned during her travels, is how to eat more wild foods. Now she eats a variety of vegetation spotted along her route, such as wild dandelions and onions.
Long riding has given her a new appreciation of North America, and a new-found respect for the people she meets along the way.
“Everywhere I go I meet people and they have been so gracious and nice to me,” Ende said. “I have a huge respect for people now.”
One of the people who gave her a warm welcome was Ronan resident Marilyn Dolezal, who spotted Ende on Hwy. 93 and offered her to come spend the night with her on her ranch.
“She refused at first, but once I said the words ‘box stalls’ she wanted to come stay,” Dolezal said.
After arriving and settling her horses in for the night, the two had a glass of wine, followed by dinner in town.
“I told her if a bed is empty, you can sleep there,” Dolezal said. “She told me the long soak in the bathtub felt so good.”
Dolezal added that she rarely meets someone and invites them in, but Ende was a very special person on an incredible journey.
“She’s a fun, classy lady,” Dolezal said. “ I like ladies that can do things, and this lady can do things. What an experience to have this fabulous lady in my kitchen having breakfast.”
After a hearty meal of bacon and eggs, Ende left for Polson.
“She was so pleasant to have around,” Dolezal said. “She represents something people believe can’t be done, and she’s doing it.”
For now, Ende is headed to Kalispell, where she hopes to average traveling around 25 miles a day. Within the next month she plans on arriving home, where she will continue planning her next adventure.
“I’m slowing down,” Ende said. “But this is what I love to do.”
